The Kartause Ittingen 's Restaurant Mühle has a new head chef: Frederik Ohlms will continue to put his heart and soul into the principle of the 0-kilometer menu and skilfully use the produce grown and developed on around 100 hectares of land, which goes directly into the kitchen or is processed by the in-house producers.
Interview with Frederik Ohlms, Head Chef Kartause Ittingen
What do you stand for?
For sustainable, holistic cuisine. I want to connect gastronomy even more with producers. And, of course, for good craftsmanship. It is important to me, especially in this day and age, to pass this on to the next generation. I also take social aspects such as food trends into account. And ultimately, it's about taste, about the experience. We want to offer enjoyment. People should enjoy coming to eat.
What do the yellow wellies stand for in your office?
(Laughs) We regularly trudge into the Rossschwemme to harvest watercress.
Where are you from?
I am interested in art, languages and cultures and started with art history and ethnology. During my studies, however, I realized that I was more interested in my part-time job. Food can also be art. Hospitality and food are an important part of every culture; they connect people. So my path led me from the bottom up to star gastronomy. In Switzerland , I was with Stefan Wiesner and now here, in a place where culinary art, art, history, agriculture and sustainability are symbiotically united. It's a perfect match.
What are you passionate about?
For good food.
What is your personal motto?
If you do something, you do it properly - no half measures.
You've been at Kartause Ittingen for a few months now. Do you already have a favorite product?
I love our vine cheese, for example.
Have you chosen a favorite herb?
Yes, the watercress.
Which product did you surprise us with?
I think with fig leaves that I ordered from the in-house nursery. We made an oil from them and perfumed panna cotta with it. For those who don't know, it has a slight taste of coconut. So a bit of local exoticism.
Describe your cooking style in a few words.
Creative, simple, daring, pointed.
What do you want to achieve at Kartause Ittingen ?
I have set myself the goal of being able to use at least one Ittinger product for every dish all year round. In the medium term, I have in mind a flavor library with all Ittinger products.
How do you cook in your private life?
At home, I cook very simply, but also dishes that I don't cook here, such as seafood. I also like to bake bread and am always trying out new things.
Why aren't bells and whistles your thing?
It's easier to add things than to take them away. A little herb here, a little flower there. For me, all the components on the plate have to make sense so that you can focus on the essentials, on the product itself and the taste. And so the plate is usually pure.
What do you attach particular importance to in the team?
To good cooperation, where one looks to the other. Then I try to encourage experimentation and encourage people to take a different perspective.
Where do you get your inspiration from?
From nature, from specialist books. Sometimes it just comes to you; like here, through the history of the place, when you talk to producers and walk around the site with your eyes wide open.
What do you do in your free time?
In addition to cooking and baking, I naturally enjoy eating out, being in nature and painting or drawing when I get the chance.
Carrots or steak?
Steak.
Fillet or milk?
Milk.
Sweet or salty?
Both. Even at the same time.
What do you put on your bread?
A good piece of cheese on homemade sourdough bread.
What is never missing in your fridge at home?
Crispy chili oil and cheese.
A special taste experience that you will never forget?
The first time I ate seafood as a child. And pickled caterpillars in the Congo. They went surprisingly well with beer.
When was the last time you ate packet soup?
Two weeks ago, namely kimchi ramen.